Baldness, An Introduction
Hair loss is a problem that often accompanies other health conditions in or on the body. Dogs that have been exposed to Scabies Mange mites will often develop balding patches that itch. Dogs whose immune systems do not properly control Demodex mites on the skin usually have balding and irritation on the face, notably around the eyes first.
"Alopecia X"...this term is a catch-all that refers to a hair-loss condition supposed to be caused by a number of follicle-related hormonal problems...including low Melatonin levels in the body, either high or low Testosterone (in males), possibly high or low Estrogen in females, and other hormonal states not yet determined by medical science. This condition is not considered a health-hazard, but a cosmetic condition that is sometimes helped by supplementation with Melatonin. Hair loss that arises around puberty and is not linked to other problems can often be (at least partially) corrected with neuter/spay surgery.
Some older-age changes in the body organs can lead to hair loss and skin changes including (but not limited to):
1) Low Thyroid Function (or Hypothyroidism)...if thyroid hormones decline, hair can be lost first on the flanks and base of the tail, then generally all over. Since thyroid hormones also do a lot of other "jobs" in the body (including maintain metabolism, heart health and brain health), these hormones should be evaluated with some blood tests and then replaced if found to be too low.
2) Cushing's Disease (or Hyperadrenocorticism)...this is a problem involving an excess of cortisol in the body being excreted either by the adrenal glands (they sit on top of the kidneys) or by the pituitary gland in the brain. Other symptoms include a pot-bellied appearance (pear-shaped belly), thin skin, excessive thirst and need to urinate, "foggy" mental function. Blood tests are needed as well to evaluate for this syndrome.
More Than Skin-Deep
Malassezia Yeast Skin Infection
The most common Malassezia bug isolated in dogs is a "normal" resident of the dog skin...this means that we cannot ever completely erradicate it, and dogs that develop overgrowths and related symptoms must be periodically re-treated.
The feet can be particularly tricky since a dog can reach and lick them essentially all day long. Medicines applied to the feet are easily defeated when licked off.
Dogs that develop sensitivity may be allergic in general, allergic to Malassezia in particular, or unable to produce the immune cells that keep this yeast in check. Other health conditions (like diabetes, irritable bowel disease or lymphoma) that ordinarily arise in older dogs can be accompanied by immune dysfunction in this regard.
A dog that has been diagnosed with other specific allergies will always have recurrences.
Excess sugar in the body can feed any yeast...chronic licking can keep skin supplied with sugar from poor-quality food.
Things to Try:
1) Food: if your pet does not yet need a prescription reduced-allergen food, do select the best-quality maintenance diet that you can afford. Corn is the highest-sugar carbohydrate source, so if this is listed in the first 3 ingredients of the current diet, consider changing!! Adding an acidophillus supplement to meals can be helpful in keeping yeasts controlled in the digestive organs.
2) Periodic use of oral anti-fungal medication can be quite effective (but expensive) when an outbreak occurs...you should monitor a pet's liver function while on oral treatment to make sure that no organ damage occurs.
3) While the feet can be the most difficult to control (licking, contact with bacteria on the ground, etc), they can be the easiest to treat with soaks: you can try a 50:50 mix of white vinegar and warm distilled water...let your pet stand in a dish of it for 20 minutes every morning, then pat dry. This mix is non-toxic and will not interfere with medical treatments. This alone may be an adequate preventative when you've controlled an outbreak, and can be used indefinitely. This rinse can be used any time that the feet get too wet and muddy as well as when you don't want to overuse shampoo detergents. It can be applied to the entire coat as a general preventative-conditioner to prevent rapid generalization of the infective condition.
4) You may want to discuss using a special solution of 4% chlorhexidine in distilled water with your vet who can supply you with a good chlorhexidine concentrate...this can be used as a 2-3 times weekly soak, then blotted dry. When combined with oral treatment this can help shorten an outbreak's duration.
5) If a greasy build-up even accompanies an outbreak, shampoos like benzoyl peroxide can be used to degrease so that topical treatment is more effective.
Swollen Ear Flap/Pillow Ear/Ear Hematoma
An ear flap hematoma can be thought of as a giant blood-blister inside the ear flap. It is usually caused by a lot of head shaking or ear scratching...infection of the deeper ear canal is the most common original cause, with generalized allergies a close second. It is also possible that another condition that interferes with blood clotting or blood vessel integrity could be involved.
These hematomas are not malignant (dangerous) if traumatic in origin, but can feel hot (when still bleeding) and puffy.
The remote possibility does exist that your dog can break the skin of a blood-filled ear flap and release the blood...this is very messy, but again, not dangerous as long as the veins inside the ear have stopped bleeding.
It is always best to have such an ear examined by a qualified veterinarian as soon as you are able to arrange it. If an infection deep in the ear canal was the beginning of this problem, the vet will clean the ear canal and prescribe medication. Without help, these are difficult to deal with because the ear canal itself can be painful.
Depending on your dog's age and overall health, the vet will also discuss how to deal with the hematoma...they are often drained and bandaged. If left untreated, the blood will slowly reabsorb, but the flap will crinkle up.
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Nose Skin Changes Color
Dogs have natural variations to the skin color of the nose, depending on breed. Dramatic changes (especially to pink or white) in the nose pigment are regularly examined in veterinary offices.
Loss of pigment on the nose can be due to a number of things in pet dogs, including: Autoimmune Disease (like Lupus), nutritional deficits, repeated sunburns, genetic conditions, and certain types of cancer (like Lymphoma). Some breeds are more prone to these health conditions than others.
Sometimes, skin pigment changes occur in the absence of any pre-existing condition, and no serious disease process can be found at work elsewhere in the body. This kind of condition is called Idiopathic ("abnormality that does not make sense").
Of course, very active dogs can get injuries to the face that scab, then heal with light colored skin first that then turns back to the normal dark color later, or scars a lighter shade of self-color.
Depigmented skin is at higher risk for sunburns, and thus more likely to develop carcinomas than dark skin, so some precautions in regards to sun exposure are in order for your pet...the autoimmune diseases are also adversely affected by too much sun exposure.
You should have a veterinarian who is familiar with canine skin conditions examine any skin changes to make sure that there is no cause for concern in general, or to find out if a consultation with a Veterinary Dermatologist is needed. A note can be made as to when the spot appeared, how large it is, etc., so that comparisons can be made and tracked over time.
Ear Care
Introduction: The inner surface of the dog's ear is covered with skin. This skin is just as sensitive to allergens and chemicals as the rest of your pet's dermis. Lhasas and Shih Tzus can develop the full gammut of ear health problems as other breeds do. There are many preventative measures that can be taken to keep the ear canal healthy, and your pet's hearing intact.
The dog's ear canal runs down the entire side of the face, taking a bend toward the nose about half-way down. The ear drum is located near the bottom of the l-curved canal. The ear drum (and your pet's ability to hear) can be damaged by chemicals and infective agents. NEVER NEVER use home cleaning recipes in the ear unless your vet has specifically approved it for you. A ruptured or scarred ear drum may never heal...resulting in permenant hearing loss. Hydrogen peroxide or rubbing alcohol can irritate skin and cause deep pain...injuring your pet and making him/her shy of having the ears handled in the future.
Types of Ear Infections: Although a dog's ear canals can be infected with both bacterial and fungal agents, there are some differences:
Yeast Infections:
1) discharge--usually brown or dark in color
2) odor--sweet or musky
3) feels--itchy, or painful if severe or complicated by bacterial overgrowth
Bacterial Infections:
1) discharge--any color, usually light or even green
2) odor--sour and foul
3) feels--very painful...ear is usually very red and swollen inside...if scratching is taking place, the skin is very susceptible to tears and bleeding
***Both of these conditions should receive medical attention. Treatment is different for each microbial growth, so a proper diagnosis is key to getting good control.***
Severe ear infections can affect the ear's balance centers that communicate with the brain...symptoms of Vestibular Syndrome can result and cause additional discomort.
Ear infections cause dogs to scratch, sometimes violently. This can break the blood vessels inside the flaps of the ears...resulting in large blood bisters. These hematomas are not dangerous, but should receive medical attention.
Preventative Ear Care Tips:
1) Keep long hairs growing around and out of the ear canal opening trimmed short.
2) DO NOT pluck or pull hairs out of the ear opening...this can damage sensitive skin cells and cause more susceptibility to inflammation!
3) Use a gentle ear cleaner...your vet's office will be able to give you the name of the most useful brand available in your area.
4) Consult your vet's office immediately if your pet scratches too much, cries while scratching or has evidence of a yucky odor or discharge from the ear canal, even if you don't see anything at the opening.
Anal Sac Information
Mammals have what are considered vestigial scent glands on either side (about 10 & 2 o'clock) inside the rectum...in dogs we call these Anal Sacs.
Inside these sacs a stinky (old-fishy smell) fluid is stored...its purpose is thought to be individualized scent marking of stool. When functioning normally, they squeeze out the fluid during a BM. It is also possible for the glands to express during a time of extreme fear or surprise.
Dogs in general, and Lhasa/Shih Tzus in particular, have difficulty with either NOT being able to express the fluid (it builds up and can become infected), or with (less commonly) fluid leaking or expressing inappropriately, such as during sleep.
The anal sacs can become infected if they do not function properly. This is very painful, dangerous to the health of surrounding tissue, will require antibiotic therapy to correct. Your veterinarian should be consulted if you dog "scoots" around on the carpet, seems hesitant to sit down or licks under the tail obsessively.
Repeated impactions and infections are uncomfortable for your pet and can lead to other health problems if resistant bacteria invade the skin or blood in general. Repetitively problematic glands can be surgically removed.
Some dogs have poor nerve control of the glands, and will leak scent fluid when in a certain stage of deep sleep. These sacs are surgically removed because of the nuisance factor!
Conversely, pets that cannot release scent fluid that is very hard and thick have the sacs surgically removed to prevent discomfort and infection.
This is a surgery that should be performed by an experienced surgeon since there is a risk of damaging nerves that control the rectum lying in this area.
